Slip through Little Banchan Shop and find Meju, an eight-seat counter where chef Hooni Kim serves a seven-course exploration of Korean fermentation. Each dish spotlights a different jang: amberjack with gochujang, Miyazaki beef with ssamjang, and fried fish with 128-year-old soy sauce. The chef's enthusiasm for microbes is infectious, and by the end you'll know your doenjang from your ganjang—and probably feel healthier too.