Step through the doors of this 1998 Hayes Valley institution and you're suddenly in Paris: velvet banquettes, art deco wallpaper, and a glowing absinthe fountain behind the bar. The French brasserie classics hit all the right notes, from Gruyère-topped Onion Soup to a black truffle Cheeseburger that's become the stuff of local legend. Come for a leisurely lunch, stay for craft cocktails that could make noon feel like midnight.