A natural-wine haven on Boulevard Chave where British chef Robert Shipley turns out unpretentious French classics: chanterelles on toast with glossy egg yolk, braised beef cheek with gratin dauphinois, and a swoon-worthy chocolate-hazelnut mousse. The 6,000-bottle cellar is the real draw, stocked with skin-contact vermentino and Angevin chenin by the glass.