There is every other seafood counter you've sidled up to, and then there is Penny. This 31-seat spot from the Claud team puts you elbow-to-elbow with the raw bar action, where chefs shuck oysters and sear squid over binchotan while you watch. Order the Ice Box, a chilled metal tray piled with pristine shellfish, then follow with stuffed squid and that legendary sesame brioche.