This is the baguette that just won Paris. Sithamparappillai Jegatheepan's 14-hour cold-fermented "Tradition" has a honeycomb crumb and golden, crackly crust that earned him the keys to the Élysée for a year. Come for the bread that beat 126 other boulangers, stay for the warm welcome from the Sri Lankan baker who arrived in 2003 and mastered the craft.