Soif's first permanent bar hides a secret: beneath the lino lies broken tile that looks exactly like the blue marl rocks of Jura vineyards. The team turned this discovery into Marnes Bleues, pouring nine natural wines on tap alongside Vittoria Durand's playful vegetable plates: peanut satay crudités, tahini-drenched broccoli with savory granola, and miniature gnocchi swimming in mushroom jus.