Step inside and swear you're on a Parisian side street: vintage crockery, oyster bar gleaming, legendary brasserie menus on the walls. Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot serve next-level fish with a sure hand. Turbot roasted on the bone with morels and lardo, mussels with vadouvan and calamansi: all à la carte, no tasting-menu tyranny.