Even if you don't care about museums, this place hits you — but the real draw is Picasso's theatrical side you never see in textbooks. Wander through lush costumes and hand-painted sets he created for the Ballets Russes, including the massive stage curtain for Parade. It's a rare glimpse of Picasso playing designer, blending Commedia Dell'Arte masks with Spanish folklore in works that burst with color and drama.