Hemingway wrote here, and you can still feel why. Settle into red banquettes at this 1847 brasserie, where piano music drifts through mirrored rooms and engraved plaques mark tables once claimed by Picasso, Fitzgerald, and Baudelaire. The bar mixes proper cocktails, the kitchen turns out Sole Meunière and tableside Crêpes Suzette, and the whole place hums with the particular magic of Parisian history still being lived.